Saturday 11 April 2009

Ni Nyoman Eri - Ubud's Mama





Ni Nyoman Eri, AKA "Man" (her husband Roy's nickname for her - it's true, read his own words on the Bali Pod forum from where he has been banned), AKA "Orangutan" (her sons' pet name for her), AKA "The Ubud Mama" (a name given to her by locals, as she runs the "special massage" services for the town). Nyoman, to use her correct first name, used to work as a shop assistant and "bar fly" in Legian when husband Roy met her 10 years or so ago. Let me explain, "bar flies" aka "night butterflies" aka "Kupu Kupu Malam" are not strict brothel workers but rather freelancers looking for generous boyfriends. Yes, they generally will sleep with virtually anyone for a fee, but their tasks are to supplement their meagre incomes, be treated well (taken out to dinner, etc.) and to find a regular, normally much older western male partner with the hope they will one day get married.

Nyoman was a little bit naughtier than most Kupu Kupu Malams as she did put it around a little bit more than normal, but she explained this once to me "Before I settle on Roy, I want make sure he the right one for me."; read into that what you will. I think Nyoman actually enjoys her "horizontal work" and I am sure she was either after a much better looking or an even older partner; favorite Kupu Kupu Malam saying "Get young, better be good looking and have enough money. Get old, better die soon and have any money".

Nyoman with many children and a few years of Roy is clearly past her prime now, and not so sought after when there are much younger and prettier butterflies to pollenate. But Nyoman is a wiley canny lady and realised she needed to get into management early on. First showing younger relatives the ropes, then neighbours and friends from her village of Bunutan - Kedewatan near Ubud; a well known sex industry village (in Bali they have two dedicated sex worker villages - Bunutan / Kedewatan in the South, Bunkulan in the North). Nyoman's smile and on the "ground" knowledge of what certain foreigners wanted has made this quite a successful cottage industry for her.

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